Never Not in a Book Club

I have mentioned before how much I love reading [https://oldladywriting.com/2021/04/03/so-many-books-so-little-time/].  It is generally a solitary activity, unless one is in a book club.  The need to share thoughts, ideas, impressions, to laugh and maybe even cry together over a story is so basic and valuable to me that I never not want to be in a book club.  Even the worst book club, in my experience, cannot be all bad because, well, books!

Book clubs, I have been in a few.  Initially, I thought they have to be run by libraries, for that is how I first got into one.  We moved, I found a new library with a new book club, we moved again, and so forth.  I loved the discussions, but eventually tired of the transient nature of those institutional associations.  The last one, at the library in our current town, was a lunchtime affair.  I was the only one who had to make an effort to come from work every month; everyone else was decades older—with the expected outlook on life.  Conversation was decent until the librarian assigned Kevin Boyle’s “Arc of Justice: A Saga of Race, Civil Rights, and Murder in the Jazz Age”.  As other members spent MY lunch hour lamenting the collapse of property values in Detroit thanks to The Great Migration, I fled never to return.

I had a great time forming a book club with a couple of gal pals.  It evolved—or devolved, depending on your viewpoint—almost immediately into an Eating and Drinking Club.  The books were entirely incidental to the social aspect.  At some point, there weren’t even any books.    We clung to the pretense:  Book Club goes to the movies, Book Club gets Thai food, Book Club visits speakeasies, Book Club actually tours a library.  Eventually, the Eating and Drinking Club grew into Weekly Beer Night, and it happily continues as such to this day. 

And yes, you know it’s coming, my tale of being in the worst book club ever–The Rich Ladies’ Book Club.  I was invited by an acquaintance, so in my defense, I did not know that books alone would not provide enough commonality or shelter within the group.  In their defense, I suppose no one expected a working class interloper or was prepared to deal with one.

There were some positives, such as everyone taking a turn selecting the books, and the books were generally wonderful—that is to say, normal book club fare.  The Rich Ladies did not always read them, but I did, and greatly enjoyed.  The overwhelming negative was the steady stream of one-up-woman-ship.  There were endless talks of the cost of kids’ hockey training and travel (while I wondered when did hockey become rich people’s sport and remembered how back in the Old Country any frozen puddle served its purpose) and other sports.  My oldest was already involved in theater, which did not impress anyone; my invitation to a community theater play was met with baffled murmurs. That is your child’s extracurricular activity?  Instead of expensive sport?  How very unusual…

I was always vaguely feeling like I was in a badly scripted parody of “Mean Girls, the Pre-Menopause Years”.  One time, everyone effusively commiserated with one of the Rich Ladies, whose interior designer’s unavailability drove her in desperation to buy a mass-produced lamp at Pottery Barn (while I have been generally satisfied and occasionally thrilled by the offerings at Target).  It was a calamity to be sure, but kudos to the resourceful lady of the house who braved the common throng and saved the day—and one could hardly tell that the item was not bespoke.  Well, as long as one did not examine it closely.

The proverbial pièce de resistance was the time I brought a bottle of wine, which was an expected offering at each meeting.  It was—wait for it—white Zinfandel, and from an unknown label to boot.  It was from a local winery owned by someone I knew, so I thought that was a nice touch.  Gasp!  If there was any doubt before, this misstep immediately outed me as an unwashed mass.  The hostess, a woman with a carefully cultivated stereotypical Gallic aggression I never actually encountered in France, insisted that I can only drink the wine I brought, being that it was not fit for The Rich Ladies’ consumption.  Not wishing to cast their precious nectars before such a swine, they shared their wine bottles; I drank some of mine and took the rest with me (of course the hostess politely but firmly requested that it be removed from her home).  To be fair, this was before I learned that what I really prefer is a robust red.  But you know what?  If I had to do it all over again, I would not only bring white zin—I would bring a box of it! [I am deliberately not posting any photo of wine in a box, because I do not want to shame any wine maker or drinker thereof]  Had I been younger and less secure in my proletarian character, or had The Rich Ladies’ snootiness been less absurdly shallow, I might have felt worse.  But as it was, I just never returned to their exclusive club.  I am sure a sigh of relief was breathed on both sides.

One unexpected blessing of The Plague is my current book club, courtesy of bookclubs app and Zoom technology.  There is a core group of four, with occasional drop-ins.  We are friendly, but do not socialize outside of book club—not the least reason for which is that we live all over the country.  We have spirited and deep (if I do say so myself) conversations about the books we read, and occasionally go off on tangents.  Some months I am reluctant to log in (for I am in charge of technology), because I would rather vegetate on the couch, yet I inevitably emerge refreshed, encouraged, and motivated.  As much as life has taught me that all things come to an end and that change is inevitable, I sure hope this remains a constant for as long as possible, and that I am never not in a book club.

[What follows is the list of books read by my book club that I ranked 5 stars on Goodreads. Among these, I particularly recommend “Detransition, Baby” (no spoilers–but read with an open mind), “The Cider House Rules” (not new, but a modern classic, heartbreaking yet heartwarming), “Station Eleven” (I read it before the plague, and it haunted me until the unimaginable happened, and beyond), “The Midnight Library” (if you ever wondered, like me, where the road not taken might lead), and “The Sign for Home” (one of the most unique, thought-provoking, life-affirming, funny, and touching stories I have ever read–and the author, the wonderful and talented Blair Fell, Zoomed into our meeting and was an absolute joy to meet!)]

Fortress By the Sea

A few years ago, I updated my Vacation Bucket List.  I am not nearly as adventurous a traveler as people think I am.  I like castles, cathedrals, and art museums.  After I saw Raphael’s Sistine Madonna at the Dresden Gallery, a moment for which I was waiting almost my entire life, I was temporarily adrift.  It was the apex of my dreams.  I even had to ask spouse for suggestions on where we should go next, which is how we ended up at Oktoberfest (worth every crowded, beer-soaked minute, and a story for another time).  I needed to brainstorm.  Many of my travel ideas have been known to come from books, and I have followed the footsteps of some favorite characters.  In my adult life, none touched my heart more than Uhtred of Bebbanburg, the imperfectly perfect hero of Bernard Cornwell’s Saxon Chronicles.

All his life Uhtred was pining for his fortress by the sea.  I have been pining alongside him, from the first book which I read in 2009.  He regained Bebbanburg in the 10th book, and after that, the last three books were superfluous and I do not remember them (although that might be partially because my shorter term memory is declining with age).  But really, much like “The Odyssey”, the quest was the story.  All the other plotlines were just there to support this lifelong journey of Uhtred back home.  From the beginning, I could identify with his longing.  I always felt that I was essentially a female, modern-day version of Uhtred.  There are some subtle differences, mainly related to the sword-wielding, but basically, I am Uhtred.  His feeling of yearning for his lost ancestral home defined him and gave his life purpose, and I identified with that completely.  I spent so much time listening to Uhtred wax nostalgic about his ancestral fortress by the sea, I had to see it for myself.  I had to see the sight of the happy ending.

Bebbanburg, under its modern name of Bamburgh, is in the very north of England, in Northumberland, and is much closer to Edinburgh than London.  Once that simple geographical equation became clear to me, the rest was easy.  I planned a trip to Glasgow, because I have already been to Edinburgh once before, and Glasgow, from where all the rugged and rogue BBC policemen seem to come, was as yet unexplored and still a mere couple of hours from Bamburgh. (Yes, where I come from we measure distance in hours).

An honorable Bucketless mention goes to my valiant effort of driving from Glasgow to Bamburgh.  Even in Europe, trains do not reach every corner of the continent, and one car ride is always simpler than two trains, a bus, and a cab.  I will not lie, anxiety was high, and even as someone to whom driving is as natural as walking, I was by no means sure that either the car or its passengers will emerge unscathed from this trip.

And yet we did.  I never, ever, not in any demented fantasy, pictured myself driving on the wrong side of the road.  But once I did, I realized that the wrong side of the road is not the problem, you just move along (and the helpful “Drive on the left” sticker became a mantra I constantly whispered to myself).  It’s sitting on the wrong side of the car, with all that unaccustomed space on the left where nothing but the door should be, that is the real issue.  It is difficult to stay within the lines and not veer to the left.  If I had a continental car, it would have been a piece of cake.  In any case, no one got hurt, and I never want to do it again in this lifetime—even though I am quite inordinately proud of having done it.  But seriously, it was not enjoyable at all.

Driving up to Bamburgh castle from the road, seeing it just suddenly come into view, imagining what those Vikings must have seen over a millennium ago as they approached this imposing stone bastion—well, all I could do was yell “Foto machen!”at the spouse, as I could not pull over for fear that I would lose my precarious driving momentum.  Is it beautiful?  Of course.  The current owners—not Uhtred’s descendants, alas—do a good job of displaying the history of the area and showcasing the connection to “The Last Kindgom” (not the books, but the TV series, which I, expectedly, found to be a pale shadow of the books).  The castle is majestic, and the views of the North Sea from the ramparts are stunning.  The village at the foot of the fortress is charming and picturesque. 

I have seen a lot of castles in my lifetime, including an exhausting obligatory field trip of the Loire Valley during my semester in France, at the end of which I could not imagine that a time would come when I would voluntarily seek out a chateau if I was not required to write an essay about it.  Oh, the irony!  Last year, I visited Mont St. Michel, another bucket list item, certainly more famous in the world, and arguably more magnificent, in the eye of any beholder.  But, I have never read a book about Mont St. Michel, let alone an epic full of longing for home, a decades-long quest to regain one’s destiny, a story of homesickness and loss that echoed in my heart with every installment of Uhtred’s journey’s many setbacks and heartbreaks.

This is why Bebbanburg.  It is not just a cool castle.  And it is not even just a cool story.  It’s THE story.  Uhtred loses parents and parental figures, siblings, wives, children, and friends.  He lives a life that is not his, a life that was thrust upon him by circumstances and the wills of others.  He goes viking, serves and follows orders of people he hates and who hate him, fights in foreign wars, has adventures, achieves success, fame, and fortune, and makes friends for life.  Yet through it all, he just wants to go home.  Bebbanburg is the reality of his childhood, the dream of his adult life, and ultimately the recaptured reality of his old age.  He went home again, and he stayed home.  It was exhilarating to stand on those ramparts and imagine him there, his life’s goal achieved.  We should all be so blessed to end our journey exactly where we belong.

Scrap Metal Fiasco

“Nothing that happens to us after we are twelve matters very much.” J.M. Barrie

I must preface the following with a disclaimer.  I have told this story so often that I am pretty certain I have already written it, so if you have already heard or read it, please let me know (and like it anyway). 

I was six years old when I cautioned myself to beware, for I was surrounded by people who were not smarter than me.  It might have been a devastating realization to a child that young.  Instead, it was an inspiration to rally and rely on myself—the old “trust but verify” (which is, in fact, a Russian proverb), minus the trust.  I proceeded to have an eventful childhood full of hijinks, camaraderie, and a singular focus on defying authority.  Almost half a century later, I stand by every shenanigan, and only wish I had made more mischief.  “Forget regret or life is yours to miss”—Jonathan Larson was also right.

In some late years of the seemingly never-ending stagnation of Leonid Brezhnev’s rule, I was a Young Pioneer.  Surrounded by like-minded and like-spirited delinquents-in-training, I vacillated between apathy and active defiance, usually settling on an attitude of passive aggression.  My class of just under thirty pupils[1] was divided into three “links”, similar to a coed Cub Scout den without parents.  In the most disorganized, wild, and irresponsible class, I predictably belonged to the laziest and most undisciplined link.  There were eight of us, if memory serves, which included a core group of restless and adventurous girlfriends, and a couple of unpopular boys.  To snatch defeat out of the jaws of any potential victory was almost a point of honor for me and my young comrades.  To be fair, we usually started out doing what we were supposed to, and proceeded to fail in an epic manner.  None illustrates this better than the one time we collected scrap metal.  So unmitigated was this disaster that our entire school was banned from this time-honored activity for my remaining time back in the USSR.

The day of scrap metal collection, Link One and Three departed post haste in search thereof.  We members of Link Two briefly lingered in class.  Our Link Leader, an earnest, sweet girl who stood alone in our entire class as a follower of the prevailing ideology, made a short motivational speech along the lines of, do not attempt to evade your Young Pioneer duty.  This motivated the rest of us to want to bail on the whole thing, but someone yelled “Construction”, and we rallied.

There used to be a small park next to my school with a couple of see-saws and slides.  I used to come there on field trips with my daycare, and it was still there when I was in first grade.  However, by the start of second grade, the little friendly playground was demolished and taken over by construction of the regional archives.  Five years later, the site of the stalled construction was the school’s perpetual grim neighbor[2].  There was a crane which never seemed to move, and the more daring of us enjoyed crawling through the hole in the fence and all over what looked like the ruins of an old fortress[3].

And so of course construction (and we called it just that, as in “let’s go and find some metal at the construction”) became our first target.  Several of us filed through the habitual hole in the fence, but were dismayed to find that the site was picked over.  The better organized and more ideologically focused Links One and Three already raided it and carried off all the spare metal!  As I say, my little gang was always a day late and a ruble short. We took a couple of abandoned hammers and managed to detach a piece of pipe we determined to be nonessential, but it was not nearly enough.  (Surprisingly, no one thought to cut the fence down for scraps).

My school was located in a residential urban area, surrounded by apartment buildings.  It was an older, more established area of the city, though not quite the prestigious historic center.  Raiding the surrounding courtyards, we added a couple of unattended shovels and rakes to our bounty.  It was a bit of a task to stop the boys from hitting each other with the shovels, but I do not recall any significant injuries during this escapade.

In one of the courtyards, we spotted a child playing with a toy metal wagon and attempted to negotiate surrender, but his vigilant grandma chased us off with a broom.  We also kept losing link members with every encounter, kind of like when Three Musketeers started off for England in search of the queen’s diamonds.  Getting distracted, losing interest, and entirely changing course was typical behavior for me and my friends during any school-sanctioned undertaking.

Still, five intrepid girls persevered, and fortune really smiled on us when we encountered a clearly abandoned metal bed frame in one of the courtyards—with wheels, and even a mattress to boot!  Never questioning why a bed would be parked near an apartment building entrance, we immediately threw off the unnecessary ballast of a mattress, situated our rakes, shovels, and hammers on the springs, and proceeded to move the bed on out.  It was a swift and stealthy getaway, several middle-schoolers in school uniforms[4] earnestly pushing a bed along a lively avenue.  Some passers-by stared, some wondered, none dared to stop the purposeful Young Pioneers.

Not the image of that actual bed. It is surprising how a search for “metal bed with wheels” only comes up with images of hospital beds…

What should have been the long-sought success not just for our merry band of misfits but for the entire class went decidedly pear shaped, for the owners of the all this paraphernalia (neighbors in the process of moving, careless gardeners, construction supervisor) eventually found their way to our school and claimed their belongings.  The worst part was that the bulk of our bounty, the bed and garden tools, was easily returned with apologies because—private property, so a “remnant of the past”, in the ideology of the times.  It was the looting of the construction site—“plunder of state property”—that was the real offense, and our couple of hammers and the piece of nonessential pipe were the least of it.  The more proactive students got there before us and in their zeal carried off everything that was not nailed down, and some things that were, including the nails themselves.  I never got the opportunity to participate in collecting scrap metal again, but I will never forget our glorious entry into the school courtyard, riding on a bed, wielding a rake—Young Pioneer triumphant!


[1] In the Soviet Union, and I believe in today’s Russia as well, you moved from grade 1 to 8 with the same group of 30 or so students, took the same classes, and had the same teachers.  In my school, there were 3 classes to a “parallel”. After grade 8, a third of the students who did not pass the high school entrance exams would go on to trade and vocational schools, and the rest were reshuffled into 2 classes. My school, which housed grades 1 to 10 (and later, the added 11th grade), would graduate about 60 students from high school.

[2] First, not a uniquely Soviet issue.  Second, when I visited in 2018, I saw the unimpressive final product. I did not even take a picture of it. (I found this on GoogleMaps)

[3] If this is not a classic example of “attractive nuisance”, I do not know what is. What we thought we were getting versus what we got (not actual photos).

[4] Brown woolen dresses with black aprons.

Do You Hear the People Sing?

It has been brought to my attention more than once[1] that all my theater posts have referred only obliquely to my most favorite musical of all time, “Les Miserables”.  And so because I (1) tend to not write timely and (2) am most assuredly not a theater reviewer, here is a tribute more than 30 years in the making.

My first encounter with “Les Miserables” was when the French black and white 1958 miniseries made it to the Soviet television during my childhood.  It seems to be the superior cinematic version because it is French and stars the great Jean Gabin.  At whatever single-digit age I was when I saw it, however, I was incredibly impressed by Gavroche, his pluck, tragic death, and the fact that he lived inside an elephant.  So much did I carry on about this elephant than when we saw the US movie version, the one with Hugh Jackman[2], my kids were besides themselves with the realization that I did not exaggerate this fact.  (I really do not embellish—it’s just that my reality has routinely been stranger than fiction…)

When I moved to New York City in 1990, “Phantom of the Opera” was the hottest ticket in town.  It was not even brand new by then, but the wait for tickets was two years.  Two years, “Hamilton” fans!  In those pre-internet days, I literally had to call the box office and be told that I can get on the wait list.  I planned to be in NYC for at least three years, but I was also 21.   Needless to say, I never got on a wait list, and never saw “Phantom” on Broadway. 

Somehow, word got around that “Les Miserables” not only did not have a decade-long wait for tickets but was offering student discounts to the tune of $14.  Now, this was a very different time with very different pricing structure for live theater.  Full price tickets were $50, which was substantial, especially for poor students.  But, movie ticket prices in NYC were climbing into double digits, so to see a Broadway show for just a few more dollars seemed—and was—extremely reasonable.  Some friends of mine took advantage of this amazing offer and reported that, while the show was good, it was “depressing”.  This was high recommendation, leading me to believe that the story was not Hollywood-ized.  Of course I loved it.  If I knew then what I know now, I would have seen it again.  And again.

In the 1990s and early 2000s, “Les Miz” was touring on a semi-regular basis, and I saw it twice more in Detroit.  The third time, in 2010, my kids were finally old enough to be worth a ticket (for at that point, we were already hundreds of dollars away from the measly $50, let alone $14).  I built it up as the best thing they will ever see live on stage.  The lights came down, and I broke out in cold sweat, because—“There is no ship in Les Miz”!  The Abomination came to town.  For three interminable hours, I watched my beloved show dismantled.  Gone were the revolving stage and the barricades, replaced with CGI images.  Gavroche’s song was cut.  The whole production was just somehow pedestrian, dull, in a word—miserable.  And poor Enjolras, the tragic hero of the doomed uprising, is wheeled away in a cart possibly borrowed from Spamalot (don’t you just expect him to spring up singing “I’m not dead yet”?)  Trevor Nunn, the director of the original production, hated it, asking “why something inferior has been created when something superior could have been created.” [3]  Why indeed? 

I took this musical for granted because it always existed, it always toured, but after seeing the new and worsened version, I was crushingly disappointed.  I took to the internet and discovered that the original version was still playing at the West End.  That was all well and good, but before I even had time to lament this unreachable dream, I learned that I would be going on a business trip to London in the coming months.  If ever I believed in luck and fate, it was at that moment.  But… but, I must have forgotten that life is just a series of turns around which fate is waiting with a stuffed eel skin[4].  Thinking that a musical that is a quarter of a century old is not the hottest ticket in town, I figured that I will just grab a ticket at a half-price booth upon arrival.  However, leisurely perusing West End offerings with the idea to see what else I could see[5], led me to a sudden shocking discovery: there were no tickets for “Les Miserables” during the time of my trip!  Whaaat?!   An increasingly frantic internet search revealed that Alfie Boe[6] was doing a limited run as Jean Valjean.  Furthermore, Matt Lucas was appearing as Thenardier at the same time—and frankly, my money is still on him causing the sellout, because when he said “Paris in the DUST” and chuckled knowingly, the audience just died like when Lin Manuel Miranda first appears on stage and utters “Alexander Hamilton”.

Top of the show, 2011, Queen’s Theatre

So yes, that was a spoiler alert: I got the ticket, from a reseller.  I actually got two tickets, because they were not sold singly, and it was still cheaper than a ticket to a touring production in Detroit, because, well, U.S. theater prices versus the rest of the world.  If you know, you know.  It was all that I remembered and missed, and more, because I knew to never take it for granted again—not just the gorgeous music and the moving story, but Trevor Nunn’s iconic production.  

2015

In the few years that followed, I was extremely fortunate to see the original London production four more times.  The last time was in the spring of 2018.  In 2019, it closed, and was eventually replaced by The Abomination.  On my last visit to London, in November 2021, weeks after Les Miz’ post-pandemic reopening, I walked on by [ https://oldladywriting.com/2021/11/28/west-end-and-beyond/].  I am grateful that the last time I saw Les Miserables, it was in its full glory, revolving stage, barricade coming together and turning, no unnecessary projections and other staging fails too numerous to mention.  Hope dies last, but in any case, the original production of Les Miserables lives in my memory.


[1] Maybe it was only once, but very recently on World Theatre Day.

[2] Hugh is great in many ways, but he is no Jean Gabin.  I said what I said.

[3] https://playbill.com/article/trevor-nunn-speaks-out-on-revised-london-bound-les-miz-mackintosh-responds-com-169704

[4] P.G. Wodehouse

[5] I also saw “Billy Elliott” and “Betty Blue Eyes”; the first one because a colleague chose it and the second one because it looked like something that would never come to the U.S., which, as you know, is how I pick my West End shows.

[6] Alfie Boe is an incredible operatic tenor.  But the best Valjean is Killian Donnelly, who not only sings, but is a fantastic actor.  OK, Jean Gabin is THE best Valjean overall, but Killian Donnelly is the best singing Valjean.  I said what I said.

…and Bratislava

I always assumed that if I made it to Vienna, I would have to add a day for Bratislava.  Fun fact:  Vienna and Bratislava are two closest European capitals in terms of distance, so I understand that it is a common side trip, but that was never my reasoning.  I generally do not like to “gallop through Europe”, as the saying goes.  I learned to not overplan from experience (although my consequential plunge into underplanning has resulted in some unintended and occasionally hilarious jams—but that is another story for another time).  I like to take in the sights and go at my own pace, and I dislike leaving a place without exploring it fully.  So short story long, if I am going somewhere, I am not also going somewhere else.  However, what led me to Bratislava was not its proximity to Vienna, but that Trip That Never Happened 42 years ago.

To be fair, Bratislava was never going to be more than a train connection on our original journey.  We always knew that we were not going to see the town.  It was an almost unimaginably different world back then. Europe was still divided into East and West, and getting from East to West was complicated even with a passport.  A moot point, in any case, because we had no passports.  We no longer had passports because we no longer had citizenship of any country, none at all.  We were put on a train heading out of the USSR, and the first stop was Bratislava.  Czechoslovakia was still united, and Bratislava was not a national capital of anything. 

NOT what I remembered

We disembarked in Bratislava and waited for the train to take us into the *real* West, to Vienna.  On that cold and lonely platform in December of 1980, I do not remember any other passengers.  It was just the four of us, my mom and grandparents and I, and we stood there with our two suitcases per person for what seemed like hours.  This might be an invented memory, but I remember going into the train station itself and seeing chewing gum for sale (if you ever heard how prized it was in the Soviet Union—it’s all true!).  Could we have just walked into the city?  Were there any guards who would have stopped us?  It is impossible to know now, because the only tangible goal was to get on that train heading to Vienna.  These days, the hour-long trip between the two cities is almost akin to a suburban commuter ride.  Back then, one travelled from the Eastern Block to the Capitalist West in a fancy sleeper compartment, and I remember it taking hours—probably because of border control.  My mother remembers red velvet upholstery; I do not.

But there IS a vending machine selling dairy products

And so Bratislava remained something I never even pictured, just a footnote to a trip to Vienna.  The only part of a this visit I could envision was arriving at that train station and walking past that kiosk selling gum and sundries out into an unimaginable town.  Medieval? Baroque? Modern? The important part was the station, the kiosk, the sunlit town square.  None of them turned out to be real in 2022.

My persistence in going to Bratislava in the face of my mother’s mild opposition; my brisk realization that in this century, trains to and from Vienna connect to Bratislava via a suburban station and not the main one, preventing the recreation of that long ago voyage; brief panic about having to also get on a bus to get to city center—none of these are worth recounting.  Well, maybe the briefest of mentions—repeatedly seeing the words “Bratislava Petrzalka” instead of “Bratislava Central” or “Bratislava Hlavna” led this sophisticated traveler and polyglot to feverishly search the interwebs for a route into the city (get on the bus in this area, alarmingly advised the web, never take the taxi).  Otherwise, we would be walking out of the train station into a somewhat grim peripheral disappointment and then right back to Vienna, as per tradition. 

Ultimately, I feel like I gave Bratislava a short shrift.  We walked around a bit, enjoyed the most lavish meat feast I could ever imagine (allegedly for two people, but there were six meat servings), encountered another Christmas market (again, mostly meat), saw some charming medieval sites, and hightailed it back to Vienna before dark.  But I think Bratislava deserves more than just a couple of hours.  It seemed like a lovely town I would like to get to know better.  I would have liked to visit its castle high above the city, its churches and museums, taste the local wine at a very cool cellar by which I walked, and learn more about the effect the decoupling from Czechia had on Slovakia.  I could have researched and planned prior to going, but I think the existence of this town was simply too fantastic to contemplate.  Now that I know that it is real, we need to be properly introduced.

Vienna Waited for Me

***I simply could not allow the last entry for this year to be the one from February 12th.  It is almost impossible to imagine now how different the world was then.  And while #oldladywriting is not chronological, I do occasionally respond to current events.  The trouble is, the events of the past ten months have altered my life in ways invisible but irrevocable, have killed my soul, and have not yet been processed to the point where I can write about them.  At all.  And yet, the pre-war post must not stand at the last one.  So here we go.  And for the record, we here at #oldladywriting are, and have always been, against wars of aggression.***

Almost 42 years to the day I was first supposed to come to Vienna, I finally did.  I was trying to imagine what it would have been like to have seen it back then, but it could have been like my first encounter with Rome, chaotic and no-budget.  https://oldladywriting.com/2021/01/18/roman-holiday/ Vienna was supposed to have been our first stop out of the Soviet Union, and it actually seemed more real than Rome, the planned second stop that ended up being the first.  For me, the main reason was that shortly before our departure flight, I saw a segment on Vienna on the TV program, Cinema Travel Club.  Why “cinema” travels?  Because the vast majority of Soviet citizens had no realistic hope of seeing any of these sights in person.  But I did. I knew we were going to Vienna.  I think the program was careful not to show any capitalist sights as too enticing, so there were no videos of stores or restaurants.  I glimpsed the famous statue of Johann Strauss in the city park, and that was enough.  I held on to that image, exotic yet relatable, and the arch under which he elegantly held his violin was going to be my personal gateway to the West.

What happened instead in December of 1980 was the first of the many shocks and disappointments of the journey as long as life itself, because instead of allowing a handful of Soviet refugees to roam freely in its stadtpark and look at the gilded statues, the Austrian government preferred to hold us in a detention facility until we could be shipped off to become the Italian government’s problem.  And thus, for the next four decades, my only memories of Vienna consisted of an empty train station platform, a terrifying nighttime bus ride to we knew not where, and a crane that was visible beyond the tall brick wall surrounding the courtyard where we could promenade.

Coincidentally, once I got out of a cab at my hotel when I was finally let loose on Vienna, the first thing I saw was a crane on the other bank of the Danube.  Surprise—it did not trigger anything.  Too much time has passed, and too much has changed.  I was mentally and emotionally ready.  It was my fifth and finally successful attempt. 

Yes, incredibly, I was foiled more than once!  The second time was when I was spending my summer in Paris, and after crisscrossing Europe for a month, I planned to swing by Vienna as my final stop.  Exhaustion prevailed.  I literally got on the train in Amersfoort, realized that I could not face another night on the train, disembarked at the next stop, and returned to my Dutch family for a couple of weeks of playing board games and going to bars.  It was what I needed.

The third time was when my son went to Austria as an exchange student, and my mom and I figured we could meet him there.  I went so far as to buy a Lonely Planet guide, which I ended up finally using this month.   Then my beloved grandfather was diagnosed with cancer and given just weeks to live.  All plans for the immediate future were cancelled.  He lived another year; no regrets about any missed trips, just gratitude for the time we had.  My son brought me back a statuette of Strauss, and I still treasure it.

Finally last year, I came the closest, buying airplane, opera, and Spanische Hofreitshule tickets, and reserving a hotel for a week in Vienna with mom, to celebrate her half-milestone birthday and enjoy the grandest Christmas markets in Europe (and I am nothing if not a lover of Christmas markets).  Just days before the trip, the plague closed down Vienna, and the refunds for everything I bought and reserved trickled in. 

And so we tried again, a year later.  And we succeeded.  And ultimately, who knows if me at twelve, with my first Western European encounter, or me at nineteen, with my last backpacking-through-Europe adventure, or me at closing in on forty, with enough to spare but still focused on the career that was in the ascendant, would have enjoyed this city as much?  On the flip side, would it have touched me in some more remarkable way than it did now, after decades of semi-luxury travel?

As one gets older, sees more, experiences more, those thunderbolts out of the sky experiences are fewer and far between.  Vienna is a lovely city, but it is just another beautiful European capital.  Its museums are grand, but I have been to the Louvre, Prado, and Zwinger—not because I am so fancy, but because I am now so old.  The food is delicious, but eating in an expensive restaurant is not the event of the decade that it would have been, well, decades ago.  At that detention facility, I was impressed with the miniature butters (being fully aware of the fact that these were not, in fact, holdovers from the Olympics, but were how people in the West ate every day) and Manner wafers.  OK, so I still bought several bags of those, but that’s because they were the seasonal kind.  I grab everything that’s labeled “seasonal” or “limited edition”. 

It was still a gorgeous trip, because, well, look at these museums, palaces, restaurants!  For a Euro-centric traveler that I am unashamed to be, there are no complaints here.  And the piece of the proverbial resistance—Christmas markets!  As much as my allegiance will always rest with the one in Paris, Viennese merchants have pitched tents in literally every open square and alley, so one could basically engage in a punsch and sausage tasting as a progressive walk through the city.  As shocked as I was to finally make a trip to a location colder than the one where I live, this experience was absolutely worth it. 

And since I am not a travel writer of even the humblest kind, I can only conclude with a brief record of what impressed me the most in the City of Music:

  1. Statue of Strauss – pure nostalgia for me, but in any case, you cannot miss The Waltz King if you come to his town.
  2. The food – everywhere, but especially at the Twelve Apostles, which was recommended by a friend and serves delicious black currant wine.  I do not know what a vegetarian, let alone a vegan, would do in Austria, however. 
  3. Kunsthistorisches Museum – on par with any great art museum in the world.  I was ever so pleased to run into my childhood “friend”, Infanta Margarita.
  4. The Jewish Museum – if you are Jewish, it will confirm your worst suspicions.  If you are not, hopefully it will open your eyes. 
  5. The Vienna Opera – we saw “Tosca”.  I thought “The Magic Flute” would have been more appropriate, but it was my mother’s birthday, and she is the opera connoisseur.  I loved it; she less so.  I maintain that a live experience is always greater than the televised one, so we agreed to disagree.
  6. The Belvedere Palace – we came for the Klimt, but left completely mesmerized by this 15th century carved relief altarpiece.  How come it is not more famous?  (Or is it, and we just don’t know?)
  7. Oh, we also went to Salzburg, which is exactly what you would imagine—quaint, cute, picturesque, and full of Mozart.  Definitely worth a side trip.
  8. And Bratislava – to be continued.

Winter Games

There was only one significant Summer Olympiad in my life https://oldladywriting.com/2020/08/09/personal-best/ , if I do not count the 1924 Paris Games, portrayed so gloriously in my favorite movie, “Chariots of Fire”—and, predictably, the occasional gymnastics competition that I caught when spouse (most decidedly not a fan) was not watching.  But, I have tried to see the Winter Olympics every time, and when they suddenly showed up in 1994 after only two years, it was an extra dose of excitement for me.

Coincidentally, the first Winter Olympics also came in 1924, but if there is an awesome movie about that, I am not aware.

I like to watch pretty much every winter sport with, again, a very predictable exception of curling.  Some of it might be going back to the fact that in the limited TV offerings of my Soviet childhood, European and maybe even world championships of figure and speed skating, alpine and Nordic skiing and, of course, hockey took up a lot of viewing time.  If something similar was going on in the summer, I cannot comment—summers were not spent in front of TV. 

The first Winter Olympics I watched were the 1984 Sarajevo Games, they of the incredible Torville and Dean’s Bolero.   Although we had more channels than I was used to, still, this was before cable and all of the other choices we have today, and my parents would not have missed the Olympics.    It was a great time, seeing familiar sports (because to this day I have no concept of American football, and understand that baseball is basically an opportunity to enjoy a hot dog for the price of a steak), and even some of the athletes familiar from the Before Times.  I may or may not have pranced around our living room to my own choreographed Bolero moves, as my love of Christopher Dean momentarily overcame my dislike of Ravel’s music.

And then came Calgary 1988.  I was in college, and in my first wonderful year of solo apartment living. Although there were many highlights, including the Jamaican bobsled team, what I remember best is that, while almost everyone left for winter break, my BFF and I, neither in possession of a TV set, would trudge to our old dorm, watch the games on the TV in the first floor lounge, and bluntly discourage any stray denizen of East Quad from attempting to change the channel.  There was one timid freshman who seemed to cherish a hope that he might glimpse some other program during this, his first big break away from home, but that was not to be in the presence of two brash Russian women.  Eventually, he succumbed and joined us in our ardent and vocal support of Katarina Witt and Alberto Tomba.

That also happened to be the week that we somehow discovered the invention of answering machines, and were making an almost daily drive to the F&M Drug Store, now defunct, to buy, try, and return them in the quest for the perfect one, and then run to the payphone during commercials to check if anyone left us any messages.  If the machine picked up after the first ring, there indeed was a message—in my case, inevitably from that moronic boyfriend who once used up the entire answering machine tape reciting the Gettysburg Address.  Overall, this technology ended up getting used more for evil than for good, especially by my grandmother, who immediately mistrusted it and assumed that recorded message in response to a call is a harbinger of doom and a sure sign that I am dead or at least in peril, for what possible reason could any human have to be away from their landline, at any age or in any circumstance?  In subsequent years, she has also been known to use up the entire tape with messages of escalating fury, usually in a span if some minutes, but in February of 1988, this new toy seemed hopeful and benign.

By 1992, I owned a TV set.  Well, more accurately, my law school boyfriend did, and Alberto Tomba temporarily replaced Matlock in his affections.  I seem to recall an unusual number of figure skating bloopers that year, with women flying out of hands of their partners and crashing into boards, people crashing on their heads, and that one female skater who fell literally every time she stood up and eventually gave up.   Curiously, I cannot find any validation for this after an afternoon of extensive research, so either my memory is terribly flawed, or there is a major decades-long cover up.  If anyone has any information, please comment!

I must add that in Winter Olympics, I do not always root for the Home Team, whatever name it might bear over the years[1].  In speed skating, I cheer for the Dutch, the historic masters and inventors of the sport.  If a Dutch skater wins, I stand and sing “Wilhelmus van Nassouwe”.  OK, sing is not what I actually do—I mostly hum with interjections of “Prinse van Oranje” and “Koning van Hispanje” at random times. And I have a shot of genever in memory of Uncle Art.  I have no idea if he enjoyed speed skating, but he was Dutch and liked genever, and that’s good enough for me.

In hockey, my loyalty is also time-honored.  My grandpa was a huge hockey fan, and a great admirer of Team Canada.  I live in Hockeytown, USA, where all the best players have always been Canadian[2].  I actually know the words to “O Canada” and cry every time I hear it, and pretend to be Canadian whenever I think I can get away with it[3].  And of course, Canadians are masters and inventors of the sport.  Canada is near, and grandpa is always is my heart and never far from my thoughts.  His saying, whenever a match outcome was less desirable was “Friendship won”.  Oh, would that everyone had his generosity of spirit!

In bobsled, I root for Jamaica—who doesn’t?

This year, the Russian Freestyle Skiing team is packed with athletes from my home town.  How cool is that?  I am not entirely sure what this event is, being that it is a newer one, but I am watching, and cheering.  I did hear one commentator acknowledge that a competitor was from Yaroslavl, which filled me with pride and joy.

Final thought:  When I asked my students whether they had any questions (after I just finished talking about regulatory compliance obligation, an understandably riveting topic that kept everyone awake), the only one they had is the only one that was at the forefront of everyone’s minds:  were Nathan Chen’s scores inflated?  Because as a professor I must always take an opportunity to educate, I responded that no, I do not think so, and that he is indeed extremely capable.  Privately, I awarded Nathan Chen extra points for skating to both Charles Aznavour and Elton John. 


[1] Currently, it is Russian Olympic Committee, but throughout the history of the modern Olympics, it competed as the Russian Empire, Soviet Union, Unified Team, Russia, and Olympic Athletes from Russia.  I am not bothered by the absence of the flag, but I miss the anthem. 

[2] Occasionally they are Russian

[3] No, I am not making a false claim to citizenship, this is just in casual conversations—don’t report me to IRCC!

Murder at the Marsh

It never ceases to amaze me how certain things, activities, even people that seem irreplaceable are, in fact, not.  Along the lines of favorite things that no longer are, https://oldladywriting.com/2019/08/06/a-few-of-whose-favorite-things/ I once kept a list of “Things that I Loved That Got Discontinued”.  When life was less full of stuff, before a certain gazillionnaire made everything magically available for purchase online, finding a substitute for certain beloved items was much, much harder than it is today.  I have to say, though, some of these still have no parallel. 

Shanty Creek Resort, site of the below-mentioned Oktoberfest and many a ski-trip since
Not the actual photo of incomparable deliciousness, but a close approximation.

The items I miss the most are: Celestial Seasonings Irish Cream Tea, Breyer’s Vanilla Chocolate Almond Swirl Ice Cream, Peanut Butter and Jelly Pop Tarts, and Lean Cuisine Linguine with Clam Sauce.  I actually wrote to Lean Cuisine when I could not find my favorite entrée in the frozen section of my local Meijer’s, and they wrote back that it had a “small but loyal following”.  What they meant is, it was not selling well. What I read was, there are others like me, who are they, where are they, can we form a club? To this day, I have not found a more delicious linguine with clam sauce at any restaurant from North America to Italy itself.  As for tea, I visited Celestial Seasonings headquarters—which merits a separate story, because it was a magical experience—and was told roughly the same thing about the Irish Cream tea.  A pity about all these delicious foods.  Tastes are hard to replace.

Amongst the non-edible items, I miss St. Ives Henna Shampoo, although it is quite possible that I just mourn the thick hair of my younger days.  I just searched and saw it on EBay for $80, and died laughing.  That’s nothing, though—the apricot variety, with which I am not familiar, is going for $120.  I don’t know what miracles shampoo would have to perform for such price.  I would probably pay that much for the linguine with clam sauce, though—I have my priorities.

I also listed several experiences that are never to be repeated, such as the Oktoberfest weekend at Shanty Creek resort in Bellaire, Michigan—a magical weekend during which spouse fell in love with spaetzle and won an apple pie in a pumpkin seed spitting contest, and just had fun badly dancing the polka.  This was even before I liked beer!  We attempted to make it an annual tradition, but as soon as we registered for the following year, it was cancelled never to be enjoyed again.  Until we went to the original Oktoberfest in Germany—and again, our luck manifested itself, because the following year, the plague came, and Munich has not held its celebration since…

But there is nothing that I miss more than Murder Mystery Weekends.  Back in the days before all information came from the interwebs, we used to search for fun activities in the magazines.  This seems impossibly quaint now, but I remember vividly perusing the pages of AAA’s Michigan Living and uncovering all sorts of cool stuff, like the aforementioned Oktoberfest. 

Participation in murder mystery weekends required teams of three or four, and spouse and I joined forces with his parents.  This was over 20 years ago, which is shocking in itself, and remain the pinnacle of my relationship with my in-laws.  Oh, this was serious business!  We would show up at the Marsh Ridge resort in Gaylord, Michigan for a Friday night dinner, when the plot was set and the first murder would occur.  Inevitably, we missed it.  No one is that focused after a week’s work and a drive Up North.  Then the real entertainment began.

Certain rooms at the resort were designated as “crime scenes”.  Teams would be allowed to enter for a few minutes at a time.  We could question the suspects—a pointless task that was usually left to my mother in-law, as it yielded little to no results, but kept her occupied while spouse, father in-law, and I searched for clues by lifting and opening everything that could be lifted and opened.  My first move was always to lift the toilet lid.  There was never anything there. I still maintain that it’s a great hiding place.

Murders and searches would continue throughout Saturday, with a break for lunch.  It was intense, alternately frustrating and exhilarating.  At one point, my father in-law said that even when you return to your own room, you just want to tear everything up looking for clues!  Saturday after dinner, after the last desperate rummage and the last exasperated interrogation, we had to prepare and submit our detailed solution.  On Sunday at breakfast, all was revealed, and the team who solved the most crimes and found the clues was awarded the most points and was declared the winner.  I have to add that the young man by name of Jim Russell who masterminded and wrote the intricate scripts and played the chief detective who served as the sort of advisor to us hapless sleuths was an earnest and thorough host whose genuine love of the game prevented the experience from becoming the random unsolvable farce that murder mystery dinners and weekends usually are.  No, this was like the early seasons of Midsomer Murders, convoluted plots full of wacky characters, mild shocks, unexpected laughs, and satisfying conclusions. 

One of the resort rooms in all its ’90s’ glory. Note the jacuzzi tub on the left–not that anyone had time for that during the Murder Mystery weekend!

We progressed steadily up the championship ladder, ransacking hotel rooms and working our little gray cells, and finally won—of course we did!  But as is the way of things, instead of being rewarded with the grand prize of free return the following year, we were informed that the resort will no longer be hosting murder mystery weekends, and were given gift certificates for the pro shop.  We loaded up on sweatshirts, the last of which, barely worn, I just recently donated (it had neither hood nor pouch, and the sewn on logo was scratchy).  It is small wonder, because the cost of the weekend was a bargain, and the additional property damage inevitably caused by overzealous amateur investigators was not sustainable.

A couple of sad mystery-less years followed, during which spouse and in-laws and I in vain searched for a replacement.  Then the weekend was remounted, but with a different cast and crew.  It became unnecessarily challenging, and it didn’t take.  We did win the consolation prize for funniest answer with a hilarious poem which we sadly did not preserve—but the prize itself lives on, my lucky running hat which accompanied me on three half marathons, two marathon relays, and countless races from one to ten miles.  

Then I had another kid, another job, and life became busier.  The more things change, the harder they are to change back.  But I miss the utter escapism of those murder mystery weekends, and I miss the good times with my in-laws.  Both are high on the list of Things that I Loved That Got Discontinued.

Listen to the Band

I always thought that if I write the story of my life[1], there will be a chapter called “Listen to the Band”.  It would be an homage to the Monkees.  The Monkees brought me out of the haze of nostalgia and helped me refocus on what might yet be instead of what might have been, for a time.  To me, though, they were less about the music, less even about the show, but about how it was possibly the first thing in my American life that was completely mine. 

I saw the show, (in reruns, of course, for it ended in real life not just before I came to the U.S. but before I was even born), I loved it, I heard the songs, I loved them, and I pursued this interest with the methodical devotion that characterized the infatuations of my younger days.  The Monkees introduced me to the world when music was still on MTV (to quote Bowling for Soup’s stunningly accurate “1985”).  Suddenly in the middle of a decade to which I never quite belonged, they appeared like a throwback to something I could not just understand but adore. 

I have long felt that music is the last bastion of cultural appreciation (I will not say adaptation).  When learning a foreign language (brace yourself for the assessment of this non-expert and non-linguist!), first comes the visual (reading followed by writing), then the auditory understanding, then the speaking.  This is why watching TV is easier than listening to music, which has no visual cues.  By the time you can appreciate music in a foreign language for its message, you have arrived.  The Monkees’ were the first songs to which I could sing along in this foreign language, songs that were not just melodious, positive, and lovely, but with clear, understandable lyrics. 

In my actual first apartment

I was pursuing this gentle hobby in my own wholesome way, tinged with the complications of our still new[ish] immersion into the American life.  As the Monkees’ 20th anniversary tour rolled through the country, what I lacked in means and guidance, I made up in determination.  On November 14, 1986, they came to Centennial Hall in Toledo, Ohio.  I marvel now at the decision that led me to take a bus, *twice* to Toledo, first to buy my ticket, then to attend the concert.  I was literally the only person standing in the after-concert crowd, waiting for the cab to take me to the hotel where I would spend the night before heading back to Ann Arbor in the morning[2].  That seems so weird now—but I was just a freshman, and had no friends with cars, or anyone whom I could have asked to go with me.  What was I supposed to do, not go? 

It was, of course, exciting.  I saw their giant tour buses, and caught a glimpse of Micky going in.  Herman’s Hermits minus Peter Noone (loved them, love him more, though it took a few more decades), The Grass Roots (who were a no show on that date because Rob Grill had just gotten married), and Gary Puckett and the Union Gap (not a fan then, not a fan still—every song title does not need to contain a reference to the female gender) opened for the Monkees.  It is always a greater pleasure to attend a concert where you know the words to every song.  I did then, and I still do.  Every.Single.Song. The only other band whose oeuvre I know almost as well is, of course, ABBA.

The following year, Here We Come Again tour stopped in Dallas, where I was, in addition to listening to their albums and watching their show on an endless loop, whiling the time away assembling roast beef sandwiches and cleaning toilets for $3.50 an hour.  My mom took a day off from her real job to attend her first rock-n-roll concert!  It was very exciting, because we not only ran like mad to get the best lawn seats (a feat of which she is still inordinately proud), but waited afterwards to meet Davy Jones get his autograph.  Weird Al opened for them; we had no idea who he was.

This is how it started, this is what it led to https://oldladywriting.com/2019/06/23/rocketman/

New music, new interests took over.  I had other things to do in the ‘90s.  And then Davy died, and suddenly, as often happens when we face our own mortality, the next Monkees reunion seemed vital not to miss.  I saw them in 2014 at the Fox Theater in Detroit, a sumptuous venue for any performer, and might have to say it was my favorite Monkees concert.  My then teenaged kid was unsurprisingly the youngest in the audience by decades, but even spouse and I seemed youngish compared to the crowd of what looked to be the “original” fans[3].  We had spectacular third row seats—perks of middle age.  Micky’s voice held up amazingly well through the years.  Peter mocked spouse, who clapped out of sync.  But the real treat was Mike.

I have never seen him before; his absence from the ‘80s tours is well known[4].  I have always preferred the two musician Monkees to the two actor Monkees (there, I’ve said it).  I loved Peter because I thought he was the most handsome and most endearing in the show; I loved Mike because musically, he seemed to march to the beat of a Different Drum (see what I did there?). Hearing Mike sing “The Door Into Summer”, “Tapioca Tundra”, “Papa Gene’s Blues”, “What Am I Doing Hangin’ Round” was pure magic—not just Monkee magic, but legitimate concert magic[5].  And of course, “Listen to the Band”.  No one could do it like him, and no one will again, now that he has gone on to that great big Circle Sky.  Thank you for the music, Papa Nez!


[1] Stay tuned; it’s coming.

[2] I reported to my diary that the hotel was luxurious and cost $50 and change.  It was an enormous splurge!

[3] This could be wildly inaccurate, because I have some sort of age dysmorphia, perpetually seeing myself as a college girl in my mind’s eye.

[4] I was surprised to read the account of those ‘80s concerts in my diary—apparently I felt Mike’s absence quite keenly.  I had completely forgotten that, from the get go, despite all the exhilaration, I deemed that the group was incomplete.  I was not wrong.

[5] Small complaint, big regret—I wish I could have heard him sing one of my all-time favorite songs, “Don’t Wait for Me” live.

West End and Beyond

The great Russian writer Konstantin Paustovsky astutely noted, “A sense of nature is one of the foundations of patriotism”.   During the pandemic, while everyone was communing with nature, camping and hiking, I most assuredly was not.  I visited one national park (with mixed success) https://oldladywriting.com/2021/06/11/i-went-up-north-once-once/, did not take down my old lady bicycle from the ceiling of our garage where it has been hanging for about twenty years now, and did not take up “hiking” as a hobby.  I waited and bided my time in a Midwestern suburb until an opportunity to travel to London presented itself.

I saw five plays in seven days, which is my ideal vacation under any circumstances.  Now that the original production of “Les Miserables” has been replaced (not permanently, I fervently pray) by the abomination that is the 25th anniversary version, my London dance card is emptier.  I must clarify that at the West End, I try to see shows that I am unlikely to see anywhere else.  Unless Sir Patrick Stewart, Sir Ian McKellen, or the not-yet-knighted David Tennant or John Simm are appearing in “Jersey Boys” or “Book of Mormon”, I am catching those when they come to Detroit.  On this trip, I even wandered out of London, to Bath and Richmond.  The theater scene even outside of the West End was breathtaking.

And here they are, in order of appearance.  Spoiler alert:  all were great.

Number One:  “Only Fools and Horses”—a delightful new[ish] musical to welcome us back to the West End.  I actually researched the current offerings for about five minutes and this one jumped out at me as something that will never make it to the US, being as it is based on what is apparently a cult favorite English sitcom from the 80’s that is not part of the BBC America repertoire.  The fact that I missed many inside show references did not diminish the enjoyment.  The shady dealer older brother, the earnest goofy younger brother, the slightly demented grandad, various other comical yet lovable characters inhabiting their corner of London, catchy tunes, fun choreography, heartwarming story, and the evident delight of the audience made me want to go out and find the original TV show.  This was met with zero success during the trip, but thank God for Brit Box.

Number Two:  “Magic Goes Wrong”—the latest installment in the “Goes Wrong” series by Mischief Theatre company.  We saw “Peter Pan Goes Wrong” at the London Apollo a few years ago (“Magic”’s current home), and it was the funniest thing I have ever seen in my life.  The woman who sat next to spouse actually confessed that she wet herself laughing, which is neither surprising nor shameful given the level of creative absurdity that starts even before the curtain goes up.  The element of surprise is gone once you have seen one of their shows—I mean, you know that everything that can go wrong will—but it is still a hilarious great fun.  Penn and Teller created the magic side of it, so there is some actual legitimate magic alongside the bumbling tomfoolery.  I suppose *that* is the surprise.

Number Three:  “Blue/Orange”—a snapshot of the British mental health system (which seems as woefully deficient as the American one), full of dark humor and unnerving exchanges, with racial tension in the mix.  On a Tuesday evening, the little theater in Bath was packed, which did my heart good.  In this version, the character with the most authority of the three was played by a Black actor, which shifted the power dynamic to an intriguing level.  Like “Art”, this is a play I would want to see again and again to continue to analyze its many nuances.

Number Four:  “Abigail’s Party”—a 70’s comedy of manners.  I saw it once before, in Belfast, and wondered then why such a juicy acting opportunity is not presented in the US.  On second viewing, I have to concede that, while there is tremendous joy in period costumes and set, the play is very British.  It is not just a play set in a specific decade, but in a specific place (I, of course, appreciate every Demis Roussos reference).  But I still think that the crafted written characters can stand well enough on their own, and you do not have to be British or have lived through the decade to appreciate this powerful dark[ish] satire of the middle class pretenses.  It is a bit of a precursor to “The God of Carnage”, to my mind.  (And how many Yasmina Reza can one post contain?)

Number Five:  “Private Lives”—which needs no introduction.  I am well familiar with this play both on its own and through “Moon Over Buffalo”.  Like “Art” (there I go again!), I have seen it in three countries—and like with “Art”, I traveled to England to see Nigel Havers in it.  Of course, he was marvelous as Elyot, as he is in everything he does—and Patricia Hodge as Amanda was an extra treat. 

This time, I was determined to meet him, waited at the stage door, and was shocked when he actually came out—and there was no one to converge on him but me and the trailing spouse.  You would think that I would have used this opportunity to shine with my witty repartee and winning personality.  You would be wrong—I have no such gifts.  Spouse said that I should have prepared and rehearsed a speech.  Son asked if mentioned how much we appreciated his performance in “Art”.  But of course not—I blurted out that I came all the way from Detroit to see him on my birthday (sort of endearing), and went on for a bit about how much I loved him in “Chariots of Fire”.  While I did not mention that I have literally seen the film over fifty times in the theater and can recite it verbatim (which is apparently more annoying than charming, as my family tells me), I inanely informed him that I have a “Chariots of Fire” luggage tag on my suitcase.  https://oldladywriting.com/2021/09/27/adventures-of-a-suitcase/ What a dork!  Having followed Nigel Havers’ career for forty years, having even read his autobiography twice (“Playing with Fire”; highly recommended), that was the best I could do under pressure.  Well, I suppose I could have done worse.  (Someone, please tell me how I could have done worse!)  I am consoling myself that I excel in a more intimate discussion setting.  Next time, next time…

Honorable mention:  Upon returning home, I had the opportunity to see “Pretty Woman” the musical.  My assessment of the show:  the seats at the Fisher Theater in Detroit are the most comfortable ones.